Привет. Получил LapBook Plus с бракованной клавой. Западает около 10 клавиш одновременно, включая клавишу пуск, и ноут перезагружается, потом уходит в релуп. Может проблема с драйвером? Отдать в сервис или воспользоваться гарантией возможности нет.
Дайте пожалуйста дельный совет и ссылочку на свежий драйвер для клавы.
За ранее благодарю.
Свежего драйвера нет, чуви не обновляют драйвера без необходимости.
Т.к. клавиатурам ноутбука не нужны драйвера, то переустановка вам ничем не поможет. Проверьте шлейф клавиатуры, синий пластик должен быть параллельно защелке, без какого-либо отклонения в сторону. (перед любой манипуляцией с платой отключите аккумулятор)
Благодарю за полезную информацию о драйверах. Про шлейф я подумал в первую очередь. Поправил его, но это не помогло.
Прилагаю фото моего шлейфа. Вроде стоит ровно, но…122343806_356693659108684_1526039440829005606_n|375x500 .
Пока, чтобы пользоваться ноутом держу зажатым левый контрл. Так chuwi запускается и нормально работает, но если случайно отпустишь контрл, то сразу включается режим планшета и ноут жестко вырубается. Гаснет вся индикация и пару минут он не реагирует на кнопку включения.
Если бы не этот косяк, ноут был бы для меня идеальным. Легкий, красивый, быстрый с хорошим экраном. Но не повезло( 
Может все-таки можно что-то сделать? Есть еще идеи?
Возможно у вас та же самая проблема, как в этом сообщении Chuwi Aerobook keeps switching off as if power button is stuck
Но у вас другой шлейф и , соответственно, контакты кнопки включения могут быть расположены иначе.
I don’t know Russian. Anyway, please read my updated post on solution to the problem. My Aerobook is 13", yours is 15.6", but your motherboard and the keyboard connector look very similar to mine, so the keyboard ribbon shorting out pins 27 and 28 permanently is probably occuring in your laptop too – however, I can’t make out on your photo whether pins 25 and 26 are disconnected like on mine. First thing to check is whether the power-on lines (pin 27 and 28) are shorted permanently when the ribbon connector is inserted, and disconnected when the ribbon connect is removed. If so, find a way to disconnect them, and a way to short them only when you do the power-on action of pressing the power button.
@ptsash
I have a Lapbook Plus. Unlike the Aerobook, the first two pins (starting from the left) are the ones that are not in use. Am having the same problem as the the Russians.
Do I take it to mean I should cut away the portion of the ribbon cable that has no lines?
Perhaps you can put up a photo of your keyboard flex cable and connector?
If you have a multimeter, use it to find out/confirm which two pins are connected to the power-on-off button (disconnect the charger and battery, press on power button -->two of the lines on the keyboard flex/connector will short-circuit).
Then, with power charger and battery reconnected, measure the voltage between these two pins. If the voltage is much lower than 3 volts (which charger on) or 2 volts (without charger), your problem is the same as mine, i.e. the keyboard flex is somehow pulling the 3 volt line (call it PWR) to 0 volt permanently (which is the equivalence of you pressing and holding down the power button).
Then, the solution is to find another pin (hopefully next to the PWR pin), that is unconnected on the flex cable side, but is grounded in the motherboard side (call this GND pin), and shift the two power-on-off lines on the flex cable to centre on the PWR and GND pins. This will solve your problem.
Thanks for getting back. This is a picture of the keyboard in the Lapbook PLus and its flex connector. The pin numbering starts from the right, so in this case pins 28 and 27 are unused, while pins 25 and 26 (circled) are responsible for powering the unit.
I don’t have a multimeter, but these are what I have been trying out:
- Mask the contacts for pins 25 and 26 on the flex cable with electrical tape, then use a thin bare cable to short the pins manually to power up the laptop. Works when notebook is connected to the mains, but not when notebook is on battery.
- Tried to short pin 26 with either pins 27 and 28: no results when plugged in or on battery
- Tried to short pin 25 with either pins 27 or 28: also no results when plugged in or on battery.
You have identified pins 25 and 26 as the power-on pin–that’s good.
You tested shorting either of pins 25/26 to pins 27/28 – I assume that is with the contacts for wires 25/26 masked? If not, your test is not conclusive.
Without a multimeter to measure voltages on the pins, I can only make guesses: 1) the keyboard and its flex cable are the same as that on my Aerobook, just reversed left to right; 2) the designer knew of the “shorting” problem, and swapped the wires 25-26 and 27-28 around between the Lapbook Plus and Aerobook, to resolve the problem; 3) the circuit board design is essentially the same between the two models, hence pins 26 and 28 are GND, pins 25 and 27 have active voltages, you can power-on the laptop by shorting pins 27 and 28.
Try shorting pins 27 and 28 (make sure pins 25/26 are masked out on the flex cable – or just splice them away from the other 24 wires and leave them outside the connector socket). If this solves the problem, you just have to find a way to match the wires 25/26 to pins 27/28 when inserting the flex cable.
Actually, all the tests earlier were done with the contacts masked. But let’s do them again, this time with the keyboard completely disconnected, for some definitive results.
- Shorting pins 25 and 26: powers the laptop when plugged into mains, fails to start laptop if using battery.
- Short pin 26 with either pins 27 and 28: still no results when plugged in or on battery
- Short pin 25 with either pins 27 or 28: again no results when plugged in or on battery.
- Short pins 27 and 28: nothing. Laptop remains off on both battery and when plugged in.
Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.
It looks like you have a different motherboard design. Try shorting pin 25 or 26 to a known ground (e.g. a mounting screw). Whichever one that is a able to power on the laptop, you should then cut THE OTHER wire, and connect that wire >in the Power button< directly to the laptop casing/ground. Note that it will be difficult to reach the two connectors on the Power button (because of the backing).
Find out which two wires are connected to the power button, then splice them out from the keyboard flex connector, disconnect all other wires and only connect the power button’s two wires to the motherboard. This will disable the keyboard, but will solve the power issues. Subsequently, use an external keyboard with the laptop.
Replacing the keyboard will only solve the problem for a while, because the new keyboard will have the same quality issues and break down the same way to cause the same problems anew.
Search “lapbook plus 15.6 keyboard” on Google to find the keyboard you need.