Dear developers of rzbox. Create a normal cooling system. I and probably many others will buy it. Currently, the cooling system is just terrible. The CPU temperature soars to 100 instantly.
Thank you very much for your advice. We will seriously consider it.
Thank you for your letter and wish you a happy life.
Nice initiative , please consider to give to already existing RZBox customers for a discounted rate and include two fans for new RZbox models instead of one
I vote for this too!!!
Does not matter how many fans there are, as long as CPU temps don’t go over 70C at full load. Currently 80 is reached in less than a second and reaches 100+ without much efforts.
Please @ChuwiService , please… you will sell a lot of these boxes with a better cooling, I promise!
dear RZBOX developers . why did you turn the heat pipe back to the power circuits? I took it apart and was surprised.it was just necessary to bring the heat pipe to the radiator ribs.this would be enough for efficient cooling.
@Toxez Do you mean you fixed the cooling issue or you just looked inside?
Now it looks like this. But in all laptops that I’ve seen and even video cards it looks like this.
this is for example, but the point is to put a heat pipe on the radiator ribs
And yes - alas, I don’t have the tools and equipment to fix it at home. so I just took it apart and looked.
Yes!!! I too join the request for a better aftermarket cooler! I buy it for sure if you make it!
I agree to this request.
I am waiting for rzbox
Then…chuwi can already change fan and ship for new clients…
The fins you’re looking for are under the black shroud.
There aren’t enough of them and they could have gone much larger.
That single heat pipe is the problem. My gen 4 nvme ssd has a cooler on it with two!
I’ve been watching it for about a week or so and I’ve tried quite a few things. Not much luck with that existing cooler.
What I’m seeing is that 3-4 of the cores get MUCH hotter than the other 4, the gpu, the encode/decode engine, and the package and socket sensors. At first. And then the entire thing warms up, but I’ve had a hard time getting the GPU to the danger zone temp wise.
The GPU is aside from the main cpu. And the cpu cores are divided into two sets of four cores. The gpu, cpu chonks, encode/decode are in different places on the die. The GPU is off to one side.
So I’d bet that heat pipe is hitting the gpu and one of the four core chiplets, but not the other. The heat isn’t being conducted well by the one heat pipe. Probably needs 3 or 4. Once that small cooler DOES absorb it,
Below is the cooler for the same 5800H with an nvidia 3060M gpu. Four heat pipes. Three to the cpu, out to TWO aluminum fin/fan blowers.
One blower would be fine, but this is inadequate. Not sure that was enough thermal paste either?
I have used a variety of positive and negative pressure on the case via an external usb 120mm fan. Firing one at low speed into the two top vents makes the overall temps a bit better and more balanced.
For now, I’m making it with the internal cooler, but any cpu intensive stuff that goes more than 3 minutes and the cpu is >100. I don’t really want it over 60-65.
If it annoys me enough, I may remove that cooler and install another cpu cooler with a larger chunk of metal, cut a little hole in the top lid to let the cooler/fan stick out, and I’ll have a computer with a hood scoop.
This system was clearly designed for something more like a 4600/5600G with 6 cores. Perhaps something even smaller.
As far as other options, we have undervolting, reducing the tdp, and other such tricks.
Reducing the TDP to 35W just hacks the gpu performance by about 75%. It still can manage putting up a 4k display, but the gaming and general graphics performance went out the window. Setting it to 25W gave me some interesting stuff where one of the two rj45 ethernet ports didn’t light up on boot. The one nearest the edge of the computer worked though. That kept the slashed gpu performance, and ate well into the cpu performance.
And since what we have are small points of heat generation that simple aren’t well connected to a heat pipe, copper base plate, or other means…even undervolting brought me to an overheat on half of the cpu cores.
Undervolting, for those unfamiliar, is where you take the voltage supplied to the cpu/gpu and reduce it until the system loses stability. Different chips can work well on 85% or so of the voltage normally supplied to them. This works poorly on "APU"s from AMD, or Intel cpu’s with integrated graphics. It works well on cpu’s with a separate discrete graphics card.
Changing the fan curves around also does nothing, because those 4 cores still aren’t touching anything useful for quick heat transfer. Once the aluminum block becomes saturated from those four extra hot cores, game over.
I had watched the youtube video from ETAPRIME with great interest. Not for what he shows, but what he doesn’t. He tries to put the best face forward on products he’s evaluating. He also takes things apart, pulls of coolers without a second thought, and fiddles with low level bios settings with impugnity.
He didn’t do any of that with this box. He pointed to where the fan curve settings are, mentioned that you can lower the TDP, and pointed at the cooler to say that it really should be larger. But he never took it off, showed how the lower TDP works out, and he seemed to move along pretty quickly after saying it wasn’t adequate.
Which having watched his videos for a while, means he tried those things and saw the very same downsides that I’ve covered in this experiment.
The computer still works for me and my usage model. Periodic bursts where I need a lot of cpu for a minute or two, and running a 4k display at 60-120Hz without the graphics end falling short. It’s small, makes no noise, and uses very little power for that.
In fact, I’d bet that they turned down the fan curve to as quiet as can be, because they figured out that blowing it at 100% when the unit overheats really doesn’t help for very long. Once any sensor on that cpu die (like the ones in those four cores) hits about 105C, the system will abruptly shut down. I got close enough to this with just a windows defender full scan on the C drive, so it may not be apparent that you’re “doing anything” at the time. The paste between the cooler and the cpu will dry out pretty quickly from this, resulting in even worse thermal transfer to the inadequate cooler, and the system either not starting at all, or starting and then shutting down quickly.
I expect to have to remove the cooler and clean/apply new paste to it every 2-3 years.
Thanks for coming to my TED talk!
Nice topic. I second the “Bring a new cooling system” petition, I would do also with a cover that has holes on it in the appropriate places and size xD